04/04: St. Lawrence and its Treasures

Start off your stroll at the lively St. Lawrence Market (92 Front St. East at Jarvis). On Saturdays, the north market opens up to farmers and local food producers who all sell their goods under one roof. Be sure to make it here before noon—by then, the fresh eggs, locally-grown veggies and artisanal cheeses begin to run out. Cross Front Street to the south market and revel in a centuries-old building that offers everything from fresh pasta, wild salmon and—everywhere you turn—any kind of pork product you could possibly want. Don’t forget to check out the basement level, where you can pick up fresh-baked bread, locally made tofu and fair trade coffee.
Shopping in hand, head out the rear door of the market and walk eastward down the Esplanade. Though this modest stretch of residential living may not look like much at first glance, it’s actually one of Toronto’s most important feats of urban planning. Beginning in the 1970s, politicians and planners—including the much-loved Jane Jacobs—began to envision building a mixed-use neighbourhood that provided subsidized and market-value housing. By the early 1990s, the stretch of the Esplanade from Jarvis to Berkeley streets was dotted by condos and co-ops, cafes and schools, and was widely hailed as an urban success story.

If you’re feeling hungry by this point, go back to Parliament Street and head north. Turn right when you get to King Street, and check out Weezie’s (354 King St. E.), the bistro that’s got the neighbourhood abuzz. Or if you’re lucky enough to hit the area before 3 p.m., drop in to Morning Glory (457 King St. E.) for a late lunch. History buffs mustn’t neglect to scoot just a stone’s throw south of King down Trinity Street (one block east of Parliament) to see the Enoch Turner Schoolhouse, built in 1848. This is Toronto’s first free school, a living history museum, and one of the oldest, continually-operating buildings in the city.
Satiated with both lunch and history, walk westbound along King Street, and do some window shopping in one of the many furniture and antique stores that line the street. Stop at Jarvis and marvel at the beauty of St. Lawrence Hall (157 King. St. E.), a grand building that dates back to 1850. Pop inside to find historical displays relating to the neighbourhood. You can’t help but notice the grandeur of the place (no wonder it serves as a film set and a venue for weddings!). Stroll south on Jarvis, back towards St. Lawrence Market, where you began your stroll. If you’re lucky enough to be there on a Sunday, have a poke around the antiques market that sets up on the north side of Front Street. It’s full of all kinds of treasures just waiting to be discovered—a little bit like the city of Toronto itself.
By Sabine Hikel










